Leh is the heart of the Leh district and capital of   Ladakh in the state of Jammu and Kashmir.

Leh is located in the Indus river valley at a crossroads of the old trading routes from  Kashqar,Tibet, and Kashmir. Its importance as a trading town slowed down with the partition of British India, and ended with the closure of the border in 1962 during the Sino-Indian war.

It's a small town, easy to get most places by foot. The old town is a compact area of mud brick houses and narrow lanes directly to the east of Main Bazar. Changspa is the agricultural "suburb" northwest of the center, with many guesthouses.

Its elevation is approximately 11,970 feet (3650 meters), so take it easy on your first day there or risk possible altitude sickness. Even experienced high altitude travellers (Andes) might have some trouble.

Leh is small enough to walk most places, most notable exception being the airport, for which it's advisable to take a taxi for around 100 to 150 Rupees, although you could even walk there if you really wanted to save the money.

 Get in

By bus

There are two roads in to Leh, one from Manali in Himachal Pradesh in the south, and one from Srinagar in the west. Both routes are equally spectacular in different ways, and both are time consuming with winding, narrow roads, and numerous military checkpoints.

The main advantage of taking the road from Srinagar is that it runs at a lower altitude, and thereby reduces the risk and severity of altitude sickness. It is also open longer - normally from the beginning of June to October - and follows the traditional trade route between Ladakh and Kashmir, which passes through many picturesque villages and farmlands. The disadvantage is that it passes through a known militant trouble spot, and therefore could be potentially dangerous. It takes two long days, with an overnight stop in Kargil. Tickets cost 370/470 on ordinary/deluxe buses.

The route from Manali to Leh is one more commonly taken by tourists. It takes two days, normally with an overnight stop either in Kyelong (alt. 3500) or in tent accommodation in Sarchu (4200) or Pang (4400).Making the first stop in Keylong reduces the risk of altitude sicknesss (AMS). It traverses one of the highest road passes in the world and is surrounded by wild rugged mountains. The scenery is fantastic, though it is definitely not for the faint hearted. This route was only recently opened by the Indian army, and historically traders would not have traveled this way. It is only accessible from mid-July to end-September, as it is blocked by snow the rest of the year. Privately operated deluxe buses, state-run deluxe and ordinary buses ply the route.

By jeep
The best and only way to get to Leh from Manali is by 'jeep'. Short of being jeeps they are sturdy 4x4s which will do the journey in about 20-24 hours depending on the season. The jeeps only start working once the snow has melted, in about mid-May and they continue until the snow arrives again in October. The journey costs about 1000 rupees which is about £13 - £14. During the high season tickets for the jeep rides must be bought in advance of the day of departure and the main street in old Manali is full of travel agents trying to sell you these tickets, you won't have to find them for yourself!

Leaving Manali before dawn, arrival in Leh is sometime after sunset. Although this is the longest and most uncomfortable car journey you will ever take it's an experience unparalleled in India. Crossing over the second highest road in the world affords views which I have no power of English to describe and the bizarre territory lies somewhere between Saharan and Himalayan as the Tibetan plateau is a large desert. It is advised to take a front seat in the jeep and by NO MEANS allow yourself to be seated in the boot. These seats (in the boot) are inward facing and 24 hours sitting on one of those will take all the pleasure out of the trip.

Shared jeeps follow the same routes as the buses, though generally charge a much higher rate (which depends on the season and direction of travel). They complete the journey in one very long day, but are not necessarily more comfortable than the state run buses as they are just as crowded. However, a privately hired jeep allows the luxury of stopping wherever you like.

If you are coming from Srinagar, go to #1 taxi stand in town. Book only your seat on sumo taxi jeep to Kargil for Rs. 500. Stay overnight. Book your seat for Leh from Kargil and pay 400 rupees upon arrival in Leh. Get them to drop you at Fort Road which is the heart of the tourist area and accommodation is close by. Make sure you ask for middle seat in the taxi. Too crowded in the front and too uncomfortable in the back. Fantastic scenery for whole two days.

By truck
By far the most rewarding and exciting way to get from Leh to Manali is by truck. These trucks ply the route when it opens in summer and they will be no new sight for anyone who has been in India for even a few days. Making the 490 km journey in the cab of one of these trucks is an experience; they are not as comfortable as the jeeps and take anywhere up to 3 days to complete but sleeping in the cab and eating the same food as the locals is worth it. You can pre-arrange truck drivers in Manali by going to the main truck stop in the new town. Here the drivers stop on their way from Delhi to Leh and will be more than happy to give you a ride if you give them 500 rupees. Make sure you don't pay before you travel unless you trust the driver because they are likely to 'forget' and leave without you. In Leh there is a similar truck park. Try to pick a truck with the least amount of passengers already otherwise your trip will be even less comfortable. This is by far one of the most exciting and unforgettable experiences in India.

By Bike
The road from Manali to Leh is often known as a Biker's Paradise. Bikes (motorcycles) are avaialble for rent at Manali. A popular place is Hardev Motors - located behind the Private Bus Parking Ground.

When biking to Leh it is advisable to travel at a slow pace to allow acclimatization. A suggested itenariry is: Day 1 Manali - Jispa (110 kms), Day 2 Jispa - Pang (130 kms) and Day 3 Pang -Leh (130 kms). Essential supplies include: puncture repair kit, spare clutch cables and some good carriers (to hold luggage). The next bike workshop after Manali is Keylong (110 kms) and then at Leh (400 kms).

By plane
Planes fly year round, and are the only option in the winter. Book early and give yourself at least a few days of flexibility as flights are often delayed due to weather conditions. Air India has daily flights from Delhi, but not easy to book cheap rates, although when flying in mid May flights were half empty. Flights go to/from Delhi, Srinagar, and Jammu.

Those arriving by air are strongly advised to rest for at least one day in order to acclimatize to the rarified air and high altitude. (See article on altitude sickness)

By train
The closest train stations are Jammu or Chandigarh, both at least three days away by bus. A new station added recently is Udhampur which is linked by rail to Jammu. Please check the Train schedule as trains may not run on daily basis.

 See

For such a historic site and popular tourist destination, Leh has surprisingly few tourist sights:

-The former Palace of the King of Ladakh (admission 100rps). The most noticeable building in Leh, the palace was built in the 17th century, and now undergoing restoration. There's not much to see on the inside, but there are good views outside.
-Buddhist temples:

• Namgyal Tsemo Gompa - above the Palace, built 1430, is only open from 7AM-9AM during the morning puja.
• Soma Gompa - just around the corner from Main Bazar, it's a large modern gompa. It's also the location of the Ladakhi Buddhist Association, a conservitive political orginisation, with ties to Hindutva groups.
• Karma Dupgyud Choeling - monastery in the Karma Kagyu tradition

-The small mosque
-Shanti Stupa: built by a Japanese Buddhist group. This modern stupa is somewhat kitschy, but still worth a visit.
-Most travellers use Leh as a base to visit the numerous Gompas (Buddhist monistaries) of Ladakh